Up High In Quito

Upon returning from the Galapagos Islands we checked into the hotel booked by USIT for us at hostel prices - Chalet Suisse. We got a taxi with one of our crew mates so it was nice and cheap and then we checked into our room. We had free Wi-Fi which we were very happy about so we chilled out a bit before our rumbling bellies made us get up and go get some food. We were in the mood for Italian as we wanted a change from rice after 14 of our last 16 main meals (not including breakfast) contained rice. The hotel receptionist pointed us in the right direction and we headed on our hungry ways. Emer got a really good bolognese and I got a pizza and we were both completely satisfied at the end of. We headed back to the room and took it easy before heading to bed after the really long day.

After doing so much for the past week and never actually being able to relax in the RV as it was too hot anytime we were in an RV park or what not so it was so good to have a lazy, lie in front of the tv, catch up online day which is exactly what we did. We got up for our free breakfast after which I went to the supermarket to get some supplies while Emer chatted online and sent e-mails and what not. The altitude didn't seem to be affecting us this time but you still can't drink the tap water so I picked up 5 litres of water which only cost a dollar!!! I also went to the Travel Agency who organised our Galapagos trip as I had left a pair of shorts on the drying line after our room got soaked on the last nights sail. They were going to make a few calls for me to see about getting them back. We spent the afternoon chilling out and headed for dinner in the the centre of the new city, or La Marscala as it is known. We got a combo platter and headed back afterwards where we discovered the English language movie channel so watched a couple of films before bed.

The next morning we were to begin our new adventure - attempting to learn Spanish. While we are attempting this we are staying with a local family so we had to check out of the hotel. Class began at 8 so we hopped into a taxi so we didn't have to carry our pretty heavy bags around blindly. We got to the school with no real problems and started learning Spanish. They are one on one lessons from 8.30 to 10.30, a 30 minute break and then class again until 12.30. At this stage we met the father of the house and we headed out to the house. It was an apartment on Avenida de America which is quite elevated in the city and our bedroom had a great view of the city. We settled in and did some study and chilled out until dinner which was quite an experience. They don't have a word of English and after only one day we basically had no Spanish so there was alot of hand signals and stuff but we got through it.

The following 3 days were similar as we increased our grasp of Spanish. The days followed a similar routine: up and have breakfast and then get the bus to school. The bus is quite an experience - there don't seem to be any bus stops. You stand on a corner and wait until the bus you need comes along. Generally there is a "conductor" hanging out the door shouting the route but I use the word conductor loosely - it's usually a young fella in casual clothes. You get on the bus and when you are ready to get off you give the "conductor" the 25c for the trip and then hop off whenever the bus stops. The bus went from right outside the apartment to within 5 blocks of the school which was ideal. We usually arrived at the school a few minutes before classes started so we could stock up on free water and relax before the bombardment of vocabulary, verbs and grammer.

The first class is from 8.30 to 10.30, a half hour break and then class from 11 until 12.30. Classes were one on one so there is no hiding down the back which I was a fan of. Classes became tiring as the day wore on due to the amount of new information we were receiving. After class we headed down to La Marscala where we would get lunch and do any errands we needed to do. After that we would head back to "La Casa" to study the days lessons and relax to give our heads a break. Dinner in the evening was typical Ecuadorian fare so rice, meat and usually some kind of fried banana. It was good living with a Spanish family as you had to talk, listen and think in Spanish pretty much all day so in those first 4 days our Spanish improved considerably.

The weekend we decided to take a break from studying and go and see the city we have started to call home. It was also the first time since March that we fully experienced a weekend day as we didn't have to get up for class. We had a late breakfast and then caught a bus to our usual stop for school. We headed in the complete opposite direction and walked to the old city. Along the way we passed a series of artists selling their work outside a park very similar to Merrion Square in Dublin. We walked up the hill and back down and reached the park on the edge of the old city. Running through the park is an artifical river where you can rent row and paddle boats. People are relaxing in the shade, juggling and generally just enjoying their day off.

The old city of Quito is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and it is an attack on the senses walking through the steep cobble stoned streets with dogs barking, buskers playing music, smells coming from everywhere and the colours of the walls all around you. Our first port of call on Saturday was Basilica del Voto National which is a dominating building on the Quito skyline as we got the bus to school every morning. We climbed the hill and the steps up to one of the entrances and went in. It is quite an impressive gothic structure, especially inside when you experience the rows of stain glassed windows up high adding colour to the grey rock walls. We walked around a bit admiring the craftsmanship of the building when Emer noticed a guy walking around with a hat on. It was bothering both but Emer had the balls to go up and ask him to take his hat off as it was disrespectful to the place. He was all apologetic and we ended up chatting to the whole family.

After admiring the inside we walked around the back to go and climb one of the towers. As we walked around we were stunned to see how the bottom level of the church at street level had been converted into shops - cheap tacky furniture and electronic shops at that. We went to the entrance to the towere, got our tickets and started climbing the stairs. The first opening brought us out on the organ level of the church up close to the roof. Here we could view the largest stain glassed window up close and view the main church hall from above. We continued up the stairs to the next level which contained a gift shop. We went through the gift shop to where the fun really began.

To get up to the tower we first had to cross a squeaky, rickety wooden bridge with a rope guard which crosses the roof of the church. At the end of this we climbed a very steep metal staircase which brought us outside onto the external roof of the church. Two more incredibly steep staircases and we were in one of the towers of the cathedral. The view of the surrounding city was incredible - the houses are built up all the steep hills surrounding the city and they are all different colours so it really is an amazing sight looking around from the high vantage point. After enjoying the view, and taking a pile of photos, we started the descent back down to street level which was just as much fun. Our other must do for the day was going to Parque Itchimbia to get another view of the city.

Getting to the park involved walking uphill and then climbing a few hundred steps. We did this and were quite out of breath (due to the altitude of course.......) by the time we reached the park entrance, at which there were people selling all manner of kites. We declined on the kites and headed over to the grass area where everyone was flying their kites. It is obviously a really good place to fly kites as there were loads of people there doing it, from first time kids who didn't have a clue to really enthusiastic flyers. The view from the park was great but it was nothing special after being up the Basilica tower. We relaxed for a bit, walked around and then headed back down into the city. It was late in the afternoon and it was quite a journey back to the house so we decided to head back at this stage. Quito is mental in that there are openings on and in the footpaths everywhere and it is really easy to do yourself some serious damage if you aren't paying attention. We got back to the house and relaxed before dinner, did a small bit of Spanish afterwards and took it easy for the night.

The next morning was Sunday which is the day that bicycles take over Quito. Alot of main streets are closed as well as the centre of the old city so we saved viewing the main part of the old city until today for that reason. The day began as Saturday did and we arrived at the edge of the old city late morning. As we approached the park with the canal we noticed there were alot of people gathered in the middle. As we approached over the bridge we saw that they were TV cameras and a little volleyball net and area setup. We hung on for a while to see what was going on which isn't difficult as the majority of the population of Ecuador fall into the mid 5 foot bracket so even though we were on steps below people we were still well able to see what was going on. Soon the presenter turned up, got miked up and music and sounds were coming out of the PA setup in the small square and before we knew it we were part of a live presentation. The cameras were going around the crowd and we were cheering and waving and then we found out what the show was. People started taking out tickets and getting ready so we figured out it was the lotto but first they had 4 members of the public competing in a game of football volleyball which was quite humerous. We watched this game and then continued walking towards the centre of the old city.

The centre of the old city is called Independence Square and is really nice. As mentioned, there was no traffic and it appeared to be a really popular family day as the place was thronged with families. We took in the sights and sounds of the square for a while where people were relaxing on the benches in the shade, shoe shiners were plying their trade, tourists were taking photos and street performers were entertaining the crowd. We then walked around the streets a bit to see what else the old city had to offer. Many of the cobblestoned streets have overhanging balconies and are full of colour and people just sitting outside. We had a really average lunch compared to the food we have been getting but it filled a gap. We spent another while just strolling around and taking in the atmosphere before heading back for the bus. On the way back we stumbled across this traditional dance at the park with the canal. There were masked drummers, wooden pipe players, running flag bearers and women and girls in traditional dress dancing. It was really good to see something traditional like that and we continued back after I took some photos.

We got back and chilled out before our final dinner in the family homestay. Afterwards we took a photo with the father and son (the mother either wasn't around or didn't want to be in the photo) and then did homework, packed and followed Padraig Harrington's exploits in the US Open for the evening. The following morning we were woken by the sun as usual and had our final meal with Arnaldo. He thought we were coming back after class to get our stuff but since the hotel was so close to the school we just got a taxi to school and walked there after our final class. In the morning session of the class we were brought to a traditional city market which had fruit, vegetables, many meats and fish, crafts and places to buy cooked food by our teachers. We were taught the names of the various foods - there is an unbelievable number of fruits in this country. Afterwards we headed back to the school for our final lessons before heading off to the hotel before our next excursion.