Thankfully there were no snorers on this night bus but there was a rattling TV which was quite loud and kept all of us at the front of the bus awake for most of the journey. Nonetheless, we arrived safe and sound and got taxis to the hotel where we could check in. We did this, had an hours nap and then met up for breakfast. We were all starving and wanted cooked breakfasts which they didn't expect but they made them for us anyway - even going to the shops to get fresh ingredients as they had run out which was a really nice touch. Our tour leader explained to us that they are mountain folk and are alot more timid than the city people we had met and dealt with so far and it really seemed to be the case - they are incredibly friendly and humble but they seem somewhat uncomfortable in our presence. It's hard to describe but they are certainly different to the locals we have met so far on our trip.
With food in our bellies we met the outdoor tour operator for the area and were told about the hike Heidi recommended to us as preperation for the Inca Trail. All but one of us chose to do this the following day and we were told to be ready for 6.30 in the morning so we all took it easy for the day. We went for a walk as a group to the Plaza de Armas, around the local markets and the quite mental downtown. Here we split and did our individual things - we did a small bit of shopping, had a bit of a look around and headed back in the early afternoon to relax before dinner. We all went to an Italian place and once again they had no Lasagna even though it was on the menu - 2 strikes for me. We had a reasonable dinner and headed back to the hotel for an early night in preperation for the big day ahead.
Alarms went off at 6 and we met downstairs for breakfast before being collected in a minibus and heading off on a 2 and a half hour drive to the start of the hike. The start of the hike was in a National Park so we had to pay an entrance fee which we were told about yesterday and the scenery on the drive from there to the start of the hike was worth the price alone. We drove throught the base of a U-shaped valley carved by a moving galcier however number of years ago. On the floor were the most pristine blue lakes surrounded by cliffs and green vegetation which gave us a taster of the views we were to have on the hike and at "Laguna 69" which is where we were aiming to hike to today.
The start of the hike was on the same U-shaped valley floor and was quite gentle and allowed plenty of opportunity to take in the sights. We followed the path of a river upstream and crossed it after a while which is when the hike started to get a little challenging. We headed up towards a waterfall and then the grade increased quite dramatically. Some of the group struggled and even the assistance of cocoa tea didn't make it any easier for them. The group split in two with myself, Emer and Nathan up with the guide (well, Emer and Nathan anyway - I periodically fell behind taking photos as I do) and the other 4 falling behind. The trail was really obvious and we started to climb up and up so there was no fear of them getting lost. After climbing for a couple of hours we came out at a plateau at about 4,500 m altitude (having started at 3,100m) and saw lots of wild cows grazing on grass - a sight none of us expected us to see.
Now I have always heard about altitude and the effects it has on the body (less oxygen so harder to breathe etc.) but until you actually experience it you never really truly understand it. It can cause world beaters like Brazil to lose games to lowly Peru (similar to Spain losing to Cyprus) and has been used by athletes alot to increase their red blood cells. We had done similar hikes in America and not struggled to breathe or climb nearly as much as we were today and tougher parts were still to come. For the time being we got to walk across the flat terrain past some stunning lakes and we took a break for lunch and to allow the others to catch up. We sat down on some sharp grass (yes, seriously) and rehydrated while the guide prepared lunch. He carried a little gas stove to brew more cocoa tea, cups, plates, cutlery and food for all 8 of us up the trail we were struggling with while barely breaking a sweat. The others caught up and we all tucked in while the wild cows came closer and closer eyeing up our plates.
With food eaten and settled we headed off again on the final leg up to "Laguna 69". Fairly quickly we split into our two groups again and we took on the climb up and over 4,700m which was very tough. Everyone had their moments where they thought that they couldn't go on but after short breaks we all edged closer and what greeted us was nothing short of spectacular. We arrived at a glacial lake surrounded by glaciers on 3 sides and with a 200m high waterfall falling into it. The water was crystal clear and dazzingly blue and as we sat there taking it in we could hear the glaciers cracking all around it as loud as thunder. The three of us took photos and group shots fearing the others wouldn't make it but as we were packing up to descend we saw them come over the hill muchto our delight. We all chilled out (literally) for a bit before descending and heading back to the bus to bring us to the hotel.
Everyone pretty much stayed together for the 2 hour descent and with absolutely shattered bodies we settled into our seats for the drive back as the sun set over the mountains. Back at the hotel we had showers and chicken and chips dinners before getting the same bus to the train station to get another night bus on to our new home for the next couple of days - Lima. Here the second leg of the trip was due to start and we were to get 8 new travel mates to increase the size of the group to 16. The night bus was quite comfortable and with no snorers or rattling TV's, shattered minds and bodies we both had a relatively good sleep as we journeyed towards Lima, the capital of Peru.
It was bright upon our arrival at the bus station where we got taxis and it was pretty obvious that this was unlike any other city we had been to in South America so far. First of all it was massive - really big main streets with multiple lanes of traffic. Secondly, they drove like lunatics - even by South American standards. The taxis brought us to the door of the hotel where the security guard let us in and once again we were able to check in early so we went up and had a nap before breakfast. After an average breakfast we went back to bed and didn't wake up until 2pm which was a welcome sleep in.
We (read I) had a few things I wanted to send home - namely wooden objects as the Aussies on the trip said we would have great difficulty importing them into Australia so we set out towards the Post Office which was conveniently marked on a map supplied by reception. We headed there wondering how we were going to pack all the objects so that they would safely make it to Ireland. Outside the post office was a market with nearly every stall selling envelopes - I walked up to the one nearest the main doors and mentioned a few choice Spanish words while holding the goods up and it all sort of happened after that. The goods were shown to the man behind the desk to verify them, they were wrapped in bubble wrap and then the market woman started sewing some fabric together and around the various items and soon enough I was back at the desk filling out a customs form, signing it with my fingerprint and sticking a copy of my passport on the package before bidding it farewell with some Peruvian Soles. With that done we grabbed some food, walked around the markets a little, headed to the supermarket before heading back to the hotel to meet our new group for the next leg of the trip.
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